North-West: From the Source of the Ofanto to the Towns along the Via Appia
In the area around the source of the River Ofanto, in the territory of Sant'Angelo dei Lombardi and not far from Nusco and Torella, the eye picks out the Abbey of Goleto on a rise. It was here in 1133 that the hermit William of Vercelli, having founded Montevergine and travelled throughout the southern Apennines, founded a double monastery on the ruins of a Roman settlement, dedicating it to the Santissimo Salvatore; for centuries it bore Christian witness in these lands. After a long and eventful history, it was reduced to ruins by the 1980 earthquake and has since been restored using traditional building skills combined with modern architecture and technology. Don't miss the Chapel of San Luca, the Torre Febronia and the new multimedia museum.
Heading north towards the ancient Via Appia, which passes through Taverne di Guardia, a few kilometres away Sant'Angelo dei Lombardi stands proudly on a hill at 850 metres, with its Cathedral, founded in the 11th century and restored in the 16th and again after the 1980 earthquake, and the Castle of the Imperiale family, which has also been restored several times. Descending from the centre to a crossroads and following a link road, in a few minutes you reach Rocca San Felice, a small, delightful and very well-preserved hilltop village. Visitors are welcomed in the square by a centuries-old lime tree, a Tree of Liberty planted in the Napoleonic era, and by a fine stone fountain; above stands the Castle where Henry (VII), son of Frederick II, was held prisoner. The village has a museum rich in finds from prehistory to the Middle Ages, thanks to a nearby site of great natural and historical interest, the Valle d'Ansanto, with its small lake of sulphurous exhalations. A temple stood here dedicated to Mefitis, goddess of the underworld, mentioned by Virgil in Book VII of the Aeneid.
The journey ends, after a stop at the Caracciolo Castle in Torella dei Lombardi, at the lovely village of Gesualdo, rich in churches and noble palazzi. At its highest point, at the heart of the village, stands the Castle that belonged to the family of the great 16th-century composer Carlo Gesualdo, the 'prince of musicians', who found refuge and inspiration here for the composition of his madrigals (late 16th century).